Surrounded by 6-7000m mountains the road follows the Indus river. Sheer cliff faces and villages only accessible by flying fox make this trip interesting. You will meet some trucks, but for once the drivers are courteous. Near Skardu the river becomes very wide and the bed consists of blindingly white sand dunes.
There is gas in Sassi, not far from the KKH, but I suggest filling up in Gilgit.
Note that the road is labelled KKH on the Google Map, which is incorrect.